Once sleepy and run-down, Italy’s largest island is full of wonders0

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• August 22, 2026

It’s just after 4am when I open my eyes to a strange, dimly lit hotel room. After a 29-hour trek from Australia my body clock is all over the place, but for once, I’m pleased to have a touch of jet lag. I throw the shutters of my room wide open to find Syracuse bathed