It’s just after 4am when I open my eyes to a strange, dimly lit hotel room. After a 29-hour trek from Australia my body clock is all over the place, but for once, I’m pleased to have a touch of jet lag. I throw the shutters of my room wide open to find Syracuse bathed in delicious golden light and strangely quiet – a deep, almost sinister, air of tranquillity that is distinctively Sicilian.

After a quick shower, I’m wandering the deserted streets of this honey-coloured southern Italian city. Camera in hand I snap almost everything I see from the boat-bobbing harbour to the flowering oleanders, the grand squares, picturesque alleyways and Baroque cathedral.

I’d visited Sicily many years ago and carry vivid memories of hanging out in Palermo before taking a very slow train (where is Mussolini when you need him?) to Naples, via a ferry across the Straits of Messina.

Back then Sicily was sleepy, intriguing, a little run-down perhaps, with pompous architecture and a taste for elaborate funerals. And like many travellers my view of modern Sicily is, perhaps inevitably, largely shaped by the prism of The Godfather movies and blood-stained news coverage of the Mafia, which culminated in the tortuous Maxi Trails of the 1990s.

On this visit, I’m keen to see how much Sicily has changed, explore the island’s fascinating history and visit some of the famous archaeological sites, some of the richest in the Mediterranean.

I’m here to join an eight-day tour of the island run by Cox & Kings. Founded in 1758, the company built its reputation on these specialist, small group European itineraries, so I expect a busy schedule, decent hotels, reliable transport and expert commentary.

While my preference is to travel independently, the company’s Classic Sicily tour includes some of Sicily’s most important sites, including the Valley of the Temples and Villa Romana del Casale, while also showcasing the island’s mountain villages, stunning coastline and impeccable Norman and Baroque towns – impossible to do as a solo traveller.

After a 60-minute drive from Catania airport, I join my 14 travel companions, a friendly English bunch of various ages, for a glass of prosecco and a chat in the hotel dining room. I also meet our tour guide Rosalia Coci, a petite woman with huge knowledge of Sicilian history and a passion for archaeology. Her English is excellent and colourful.

“We Sicilians have been so many things over the centuries,” she explains. “We have been Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians – you name it. But I’m glad to say the Barbarians didn’t leave a lasting impression.”

DAY ONE | At the crossroads of conquerors | Syracuse + Noto

After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we board the minibus which will be our constant companion for the next week. There’s a short drive to the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis on the outskirts of Syracuse. It’s just after 9am, but the place is already packed. “Syracuse is a tourist town,” says Rosalia. “It’s always very busy here.”

Despite its garden-like appearance, the archaeological park is brimming with all kinds of wonders, including a Greek theatre, a Roman amphitheatre and a vast quarry dating back to the fifth century BC. The quarry’s most famous attraction is the so-called Ear of Dionysius, an artificial cavity in the rock, but the horror of this place is palpable. “Around 7000 Carthaginian prisoners of war were sent here,” says Rosalia. “They were used as slave labour and worked to death.”

We return to Syracuse for lunch and are free to explore the old part of the city, Ortygia, which contains several important sites, including the Temple of Apollo and the impressive seventh century cathedral. Returning to the hotel, I stumble on a small beach packed with sunbathers, a reminder that the European summer is already here.

Then it’s time for our afternoon tour of Noto, a UNESCO-listed hilltop town south-west of Syracuse. The original Roman city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt in the Baroque style. The use of honey-coloured limestone gives Noto a sense of warmth, but its civic buildings are grand and opulent.

I’m particularly intrigued by the Triumphal Arch which dates from the Bourbon kingship. Noto is a pedestrian zone, and it’s pleasant to wander along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, visit a couple of churches, and then sit on a restaurant terrace with a cold Messina beer and soak up the atmosphere.

DAY TWO | In the shadows of Etna | Catania + Cefalu

Rosalia warns us that today is going to involve a fair amount of travel as we venture north to Catania, a major provincial centre, and then onto Palermo, the capital of Sicily, with a lunch stop at Cefalu, a popular beach resort.

The distinctive shape of Mount Etna looms over Catania, Sicily’s second-largest city, and has played a major role in its history. When Catania was not being laid waste by invading armies, it was threatened by volcanic lava and earthquakes. A huge quake in 1693 flattened most of the city.

“The Greek history of the town is a series of invasions and destruction, but it became much more important during the Roman times under emperor Augustus,” explains Rosalia.

Today Catania is celebrated for its festivals, street food and fish market but will certainly wow lovers of architectural excess. I’m so smitten with the giant elephant sculpture in Piazza Duomo that I become separated from the rest of the party. After a few text messages we’re reunited, but I realise how dependent I’ve become on my fellow travellers.

Sadly, I miss out on both the massive cathedral and Catania’s favourite snack of roasted peppers and tripe but do squeeze in a visit to the Roman Amphitheatre, one of the largest in Italy.

It’s a 185-kilometre drive north to Cefalu which provides ample time to learn more about the Norman kings who unified Sicily and ruled over the island for 133 years.

After driving through wheat fields and rolling farmland we reach Cefalu. With its umbrella packed beach and cobbled alleyways this sunny village is the ideal place to kick back. I find a small bistro and order a plate of sardines and a glass of chilled Sicilian white. Bellissimo.

DAY THREE | Yes, there is no cannoli | Monreale + Palermo

Cox & Kings step up the accommodation for our time in Palermo. Housed in a former bank, the Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa is certainly grand with a delightful central courtyard and rooms like small apartments. It’s also terribly formal – staff don formal attire to serve breakfast.

While the major streets are busier and scruffier than I remember, the cathedrals, palaces, squares and public gardens look newly scrubbed.

The day begins with a 30-minute drive up to Monreale, a beautifully preserved Norman town in the hills above Palermo. On the city outskirts we see some of the country estates that once belonged to Palermo’s richest families and one gifted to Lord Nelson, where he scandalised English society by carrying out a passionate affair with Lady Hamilton.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria la Nuova in Monreale was a passion project for William The Good, King of Sicily, and blends Islamic and Norman architectural influences. This remarkable structure, which is beautifully preserved, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015.

Returning to Palermo we visit the Norman cathedral, or duomo, and the sprawling Palazzo dei Normanni, which includes the Cappella Palatine.

The interior of the chapel is covered with elaborate Byzantine-style mosaics representing scenes from the Old Testament. “This chapel was commissioned by Roger II [in 1130] and is quite remarkable,” says Rosalia. “The mosaics depict all the church fathers. Here you see St John, St Gregory and St Basil.”

We stop for a light lunch at a family-run restaurant before continuing our walking tour of Palermo. I persuade Rosalia to take a detour to the Monastery of Santa Caterina which is renowned for its cannoli – classic famous Sicilian pastries made of tube-shaped, deep-fried pastry dough shells filled with ricotta cheese – but we leave empty-handed. “There is no cannoli today,” she says. “Palermo has a water shortage and the bakery cannot operate.”

DAY FOUR | Of vanished cities and hilltop towns | Segesta + Erice

After another sumptuous breakfast at Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa, we board the minibus for a long drive that will take us across the top of Sicily and down the east coast to Segesta, stepping off point for the Valley of the Temples.

The terrain is harsher and drier here, but we are soon rewarded by our first glimpse of the Doric temple at Segesta, one of the best-preserved Athenian temples in the Mediterranean.

The remote, rural location adds to the sense of drama as we walk up to the temple which was built between 430 and 420 BC. Although Greek in style, the original settlers are thought to have been Trojan exiles. “The temple looks impressive, but it was never actually finished,” says Rosalia. “There were so many wars and other issues going on.”

Segesta was once the centre of the enigmatic Elymian civilisation, said to have been founded by Trojan exiles who were constantly shifting their allegiance between Rome and Carthage.

Today’s visitor enjoys a sense of serenity that the original settlers clearly never experience. The city that once stood here has vanished, so running your hands along one of these ancient columns is a bitter-sweet sensation.

Next stop is Erice, a flawless Sicilian village perched atop Mount Erice and commanding stunning views over the city of Trapani. “I think you will like Erice,” says Rosalia. “Because everyone likes it.” Fans of Erice include the poet Virgil who mentions the town in his famous work, the Aeneid, but its history stretches back to the Elymian and Phoenician times. Later came the Arabs, Normans and Spanish.

With its cobbled streets, alleyways, cafes and souvenir shops, Erice attracts plenty of tourists, but retains a relaxed, charming atmosphere. History buffs can explore the town’s two forts, one Saracen and the other Norman, or just sit on the old ramparts and enjoy the views.

DAY FIVE | On an amble through antiquity | Agrigento + Valley of the Temples

The town of Agrigento serves as our base from which to explore the Valley of the Temples, the centrepiece of this Classic Sicily itinerary.

This arid valley, dotted with almond trees, features eight Greek Doric temples dating back to the sixth century BC. Lost for centuries, these temples were only rediscovered by archaeologists in the 18th century.

“After the Greek period, the Romans built a 12-kilometre wall around the park, but the temples later fell into disrepair – the Temple of Concordia was converted into a church and is the best preserved,” says Rosalia.

Our morning saunter through the Valley of Temples is the most arduous of the entire trip but is exhilarating and informative. Our legs and brains are both aching as we drive to a small trattoria in the countryside between Agrigento and Piazza Armerina. For lunch, we have plates of hearty beef ragu and slices of chilled melon for dessert.

Two hours later we’re deposited at yet another archaeological site, but one that almost eclipses the Valley of the Temples. Dating from the fourth century, Villa Romana del Casale was once the centre of a vast estate. Buried under tonnes of mud by a flood in the 12th century, the property was rediscovered 700 years later, its beautiful mosaics as vibrant as ever.

Gazing down at the depictions of everyday Roman life, sea voyages, exotic African animals and lady athletes (the so-called bikini girls) is truly spine-tingling, transporting the viewer to a world so removed from our own.

“We believe this was a summer residence for a wealthy man,” says Rosalia. “The property is divided into several parts. There are the owner’s private apartments, an area for guests, a gymnasium, a banqueting hall and thermal baths which were open to the public.”

DAY SIX | Under the volcano | Taormina + Mount Etna

After the sensory and intellectual riches of the past five days, I’d imagined that the pace would slow down. How wrong could I be? The previous evening we’d driven to the medieval town of Taormina. A Sicilian version of Capri, this hilltop honeypot just oozes style, sophistication and money. An episode of The White Lotus was filmed at the Four Seasons Hotel here and at the town’s magnificent Teatro Greco.

Over the centuries Taormina has attracted European royalty, artists, movie stars and writers. D.H. Lawrence and his wife Frieda lived here for two years and I managed to track down his old house – now locked up – which has fine views over the Ionian Sea. “We love Taormina and in particular our house,” he wrote. “I love [watching] the sun rise over the open sea to the east.”

Our lodging is called Hotel Splendid and shares the same jaw-dropping vista that Lawrence enjoyed. After breakfast, we’re off for a morning tour of Mount Etna, Europe’s highest (3327 metres) active volcano – its last eruptions were in 2001 and 2002.

The drive takes us up through vineyards, citrus orchards and neat little villages. The rich volcanic soil is responsible for the area’s abundance of cherries, hazelnuts, pears, strawberries, pistachios and, of course, grapes.

“A national park was established in 1987 which covers Mount Etna and also protects all the communities that exist on its slopes,” says Rosalia.

After pulling into the visitor centre, we spend a happy hour clambering around its bare, greyish slopes and photographing the moon-like craters. Our lunchtime stop is at Murgo Wines, one of 150 vineyards in the Mount Etna DOC, where we enjoy platters of cured meats, cheese and pickled vegetables and get to sample some estate wines, including a refreshing Etna rosso and an inky cabernet sauvignon from its Catania vineyards.

Gazing down over the plains below us this seems like the perfect place to say farewell to Sicily, but we have a full afternoon of sightseeing in Taormina before us. After seven days on the road, we’re still eager to see more.

Five more things to see and do in Sicily

Escape to the Aeolian Islands
Older Sicilians go all misty eyed at the mention of the Aeolian Islands. Known locally as the Seven Sisters, the archipelago off the north-eastern tip of Sicily has been a favourite holiday haunt for decades. Volcano Island, the closest to Sicily, offers the rare chance to hike on an active volcano plus taking a soak in the island’s health-giving thermal springs.

Sicily’s most charming village
Sick of fighting the crowds in Taormina? Then head up the hill to the medieval village of Castelmola. Built around a ruined Norman castle, the village is remarkably unspoilt, with picturesque terrace houses, narrow alleyways and several ancient churches. Visitors who hike the five kilometres from Taormina are rewarded with sweeping views of Mount Etna and the Straits of Messina.

Enna: A city in the sky
At 931 metres, Enna is Italy’s highest provincial city and one packed with ancient monuments and archaeological sites. Known as “the navel of Sicily” Enna is a stunning mountain town but attracts few tourists because of its remote location. Over the centuries, Enna has been ruled by the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs and the Normans who have all left their mark. Its many attractions include Italy’s largest medieval castle (Castello di Lombardia), a 14th century cathedral, and a temple site dedicated to Demeter. It also stages several dramatic religious festivals, including Madonna of the Visitation.

Hike Cavagrande del Cassibile
Cavagrande del Cassibile is a nature reserve near the towns of Avola, Noto, and Syracuse. Keen walkers can join a guided hike along a 10-kilometre stretch of the Cassibile River. The path passes through canyons and scrub and ends at the Cavagrande lakes. Other attractions include the necropolis of Cassibile, an archaeological site boasting a large system of caves and tunnels.

The world’s most beautiful city
Destroyed by a 1693 earthquake, Scicli was rebuilt in Baroque style. The writer Elio Vittorini described the resultant civic masterwork, 25 kilometres south of Ragusa, as perhaps “the most beautiful city in the world”. Today’s visitors to the town enjoy a wealth of ecclesiastic architecture, fine boulevards and imposing town squares set in a dramatic gorge.

THE DETAILS

TOUR
Classic Sicily is an eight-day Cox & Kings tour of the Mediterranean’s largest island visiting the key historical and archaeological sites, from Syracuse in the east to Erice in the west. Prices start from $5995 a person and include four-star accommodation, all entrance fees, breakfasts and some meals, private transport and a tour guide. See coxandkingtravel.com

FLY
Cathay Pacific flies from Sydney and Melbourne to Rome via Hong Kong several times each week, with connecting ITA Airways flights to Catania-Fontanarossa Airport. See cathaypacific.com

MORE
visitsicily.info/en

The writer travelled as a guest of Cox & Kings Australia.