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runway_review

  • John Alexander Skelton Spring 2027 Menswear Collection

    John Alexander Skelton Spring 2027 Menswear Collection0

    You can always count on John Alexander Skelton to have uncovered a fascinating corner of British history you were previously unaware of to spark his collections. This season, that was a single (and singular) figure: Anna Maria Garthwaite, an 18th-century silk designer who eschewed the prevailing trends of geometric patterns in favor of floral designs

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  • Kiko Kostadinov Spring 2027 Menswear Collection

    Kiko Kostadinov Spring 2027 Menswear Collection0

    “How can we keep pushing?” This was the question Kiko Kostadinov said he set himself and his team following last season’s rejection of storytelling superfluity—no characters, no narrative—and his effort to reduce garments into geometric form. The answer came through Agostino Bonalumi, an Italian artist whose canvases were shaped by structures hidden beneath their surfaces.

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  • Lemaire Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection

    Lemaire Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection0

    Lemaire shows prove that it’s possible to conjure a palpable atmosphere sans spectacle, that a minimalist runway and a soundtrack composed of sounds as much as music can feel transporting. Around mid-way through the collection, an extract of rainfall played while giant fans sent a breeze through a soaring, concrete hall within the Opera Bastille.

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  • Saul Nash Spring 2027 Menswear Collection

    Saul Nash Spring 2027 Menswear Collection0

    Saul Nash’s research for this collection started with male pin-up illustrations from the 1950s, focusing particularly on sportsmen. “That led into looking at sports uniforms, and I guess in a way sports heroes are pin-ups,” he said. The result was a collection whose sportiness was tangibly sensualized—with a particular emphasis on the all-in-one wrestling singlet,

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  • Simkhai Resort 2027 Collection | Vogue

    Simkhai Resort 2027 Collection | Vogue0

    Jonathan Simkhai’s clothes lean towards event and vacation dressing, so the resort season is crucial for the designer. That’s not to say, however, that Simkhai has a tried-and-true formula for the annual collection. “Resort is such a hard delivery to design for, because our customers come from so many different climates,” he said. “You just

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  • Lauren Manoogian Resort 2027 Collection

    Lauren Manoogian Resort 2027 Collection0

    Resort at Lauren Manoogian is largely about creating a topography of textures. Fabrics are crinkled and crushed; fur-like knits, some close-cropped and others shaggy, invite touch. “Fall was very clean and linear,” said Lauren Manoogian, “by contrast to that, this is more about an accumulated texture.” In an unexpected move, Manoogian introduced bold shoulders which

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